Get Ready

Can we just skip to the part of my life where I travel…
– Unknown

In a little less than two months, I leave for Italy, and I’m trying to get ready now. I feel as though I’m in this whirlpool of “stuff,” though, and I can’t quite grab the edge to pull myself out. Let me explain.

As you may—or may not—know, I sometimes take small groups with me when I go to Italy. It started when I jokingly asked, “What wants to go?” About 20 people answered me. I ended up taking three groups that year, and I’m about to take groups 16, and 17, 18, and 19 this spring…. And, groups 20, 21, 22 in the fall. Usually, my groups have four-to-six people in each group, but I’ve taken as few as one and more than six.

Each trip is different now as I plan what my guests want to see and do. I rarely go to Rome these days unless I have a group of newbies with me. One group of four have gone with me to four different parts of the country, Puglia being the latest last May. Next year, we’re going to hit the Dolomites or Sardegna…It all depends on what they want to see next.

This year, I’ll introduce my guests to places as far north as Maccagno, Italy and as far south as Vietri sul Mare. We’ll hit both coasts and, maybe, take a ferry to Capri. I’ll introduce them to the risottos and cotoletti of Lombardia…the bicerin of Piemonte…the wines and salt-free (ugh) breads of Toscano…the porchetta and pasta alla chitarra of Abruzzo…the bread of Puglia….the pizza of Campania…

Let me introduce you to a few of the towns we’ll be visiting this spring.

Pettorano sul Gizio

The best part of the spring trip will being able to introduce my son and daughter-in-law to Pettorano sul Gizio, the birthplace of my grandparents. Located in the hills of Abruzzo, it is home to about 1200 people today. It is a perfect town to experience real Italian life. Even though I had not stepped foot in Pettorano until 2010, each time I go there it transports me back to my childhood. Walking down the narrow streets, the food smells wafting through the air and the people chatting with each other remind me so much of my grandmother.

Orvieto

You may remember I spent two weeks writing in Orvieto last May. The town sits on a tufa hill overlooking the Umbrian countryside. Besides its cathedral, Orvieto has Pozzo di San Patrizio (16th-century well shaft with a double spiral staircase), an underground network of caves and walkways used in medieval times to escape the city during wars. A funicular takes you from the lower, newer city to the historic town center.

Stresa

Everyone talks about how beautiful Lake Como is, but I prefer Lake Maggiore, one of the largest lakes in Italy’s Lake District. Stresa is a small town on the shore of the lake, and one of my favorite towns. Originally a fishing village, it eventually came under the control of the Borromeo family, hence the Borromean Islands that float close to its shores. A hotel in town was a favorite of Ernest Hemingway, and he based part of Farewell to Arms in the hotel. From Stresa, you can tour the lake and its islands via ferry.

LUCCA

If I were to live in Tuscany, I’d choose Lucca. Located between Pisa and Florence, Lucca is a bustling, beautiful town. Its Renaissance (16th- and 17th- century) ramparts encircle the historic city center and have broad, tree-lined paths along the tops for strolling and cycling. You may remember that my bike and I had a bit of a disagreement two years ago, and I had to pick myself up from the tree-lined path.

Bologna

You know I’m not going to miss a trip to Bologna! With a population of about 375,000, Bologna is home to the oldest university in the world. In 2000, Bologna was named the European Capital of Culture. In 2006, it was the first Italian city named a Unesco City of Music, and it captured the #1 spot (out of 107 Italian cities) in quality of life. The historic center is the second largest in Europe. There are more than 24 miles of porticos and more than 50 museums in the city.

Matera

I fell in love with Matera last year. Considered the third oldest city in the world, Matera was once the “shame” of Italy. As late as the 1950s, residents lived in caves with no electricity, running water, drainage, or sewers. In 1952, the Italian government forced the residents to the newly built area, but people begged to return. The government relented, and in 1986 residents who agreed to restore the Stassi with their own money, returned. Today, Matera is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was Europe’s Capital of Culture in 2019.

Next time: Milan, Naples, Bari, and more!